Burberry was just fine before Christopher Bailey, but when he became a Chief Creative Officer of Burberry in 2009, the brand just exploded. He oversaw the design and development of both London and New York Headquarters. He helped rebranding it by putting pressure on young British celebrities – like Emma Watson who was the face of Burberry for FW 2009 and SS 2010 campaigns. He also promotes British music by Burberry Acoustic project. Alongside Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts, he set up the project The Burberry Foundation to help young people realise their potential by art and creativity. Not to mention that he’s a very talented designer. So basically he was the one who, in recent years, led Burberry to its full glory.
When in 2010 Alexander McQueen committed a suicide everyone wondered who would take care of the brand and what would happen. The whole 2010 and first four months of 2011 were quite silent and nothing extraordinary came from the brand. But it was April 29th, that began the new life of the McQueen house. On April 29th, the whole world was watching and learned that it was Sarah Burton, the creative director of Alexander McQueen, who designed the wedding gown for Kate Middleton for her royal wedding to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge (and also Kate’s evening dress as well as maid of honour’s).
But only by the recent SS 2012 menswaer collection (and her third for the brand) she’s strenghtened her position as independent designer (but is it what we wanted and expected from her? Or did we wish she only carries McQueen ideas and duplicate them each season?). Quoting Vogue UK she “brought back English rock on the catwalk”. We saw some black, white, coral and crimson mixed in variety of stripes and versality of styles (back from 60s and 70s). The whole collection looks bright and fresh (and not well put together), giving the true London rock’n’roll vibe at the same time. It’s all so Burton but so not McQueen (it certainly lacks his edge, provocation and unique vision). Definiately not something I would expect from this brand, but either way – I like (seems like next summer should be all about fun)!
Some of my favourite pieces (via tfs):
It’s no risk to say that the Alexander McQueen is striking back with full (and new) force. So what’s next for Sarah and McQueen brand? Will she become what Bailey is for Burberry?